Day 25: How to endure a whiteout lockdown...

How to Dress for Winter

It’s not just about layers—it’s about insulation, moisture, and movement.

The Problem with “Dress in Layers”

People say "layer up,"

but six t-shirts won’t keep you warm—

one chunky wool sweater might.

What you really need is thickness, not layer count.

there are Two Types of Cold: Wet vs. Dry

1. Wet Cold
(32–45°F)

• Miserable because moisture pulls heat from your body

• Getting wet = getting cold, fast

• Materials to use:

  • Wool or synthetics next to skin

  • Waterproof outer layer

  • No cotton

2. Dry Cold
(Below 0°F)

• Cold, but easier to manage

• Moisture can escape without soaking you

• Frost builds outside your clothing

• Materials to use:

  • Wool base and insulation

  • Cotton outer shell OK (for venting)

  • Big, breathable garments like anoraks

Fit Matters More Than You Think

• Tight gloves and boots = cold hands and feet

• Leave room for air and extra insulation

• In wet cold: Waterproof boots

• In dry cold: Loose, thick boots and wool socks

Quick Winter Clothing Strategy

• Base layer: Wool or synthetic (keeps skin dry)

• Mid layer: Insulation

• Outer layer:

  • Wet cold: Waterproof

  • Dry cold: Wind-resistant, venting shell

• Head, hands, feet: Cover fully, loosely, and in layers

• Always bring more than you think you’ll need

Bottom Line

• Think in thickness and insulation, not number of layers

• Wet = waterproof; dry = breathable

• Wool is always a win

• Keep your clothes loose, dry, and adaptable

• You can take it off if you’re hot—but you can’t put on what you didn’t bring

Step By Step of dressing for the winter

how a survivalist dresses for the winter video

Day 24: How to bug in EFFECTIVELY…

Bugging In: How to do it effectivly

Most people think survival means bugging out.

But in reality, bugging in is usually the better option.

Bugging in means staying put because your home is safer than the road.

Let’s break down how to make that work.

72 Hours Isn’t Enough

Everyone talks about 72-hour kits.

But let’s be honest—if you can’t turn off the power and live in your own house for three days,
you’re not ready for anything bigger.

Your real goal?

Be prepared to live in your home for 3 months without outside help.

Step 1: Water

• Plan for at least 1 gallon per person, per day

• For 3 months, do the math—and either store it or have a reliable way to filter and purify it

Step 2: Food

• Track what your family eats in a week

• Multiply that by 12 to get a 3-month supply

• Focus on shelf-stable food you actually eat—not just buckets of rice you’ll never touch

Step 3: Temperature Control

You’ll need a way to stay warm in winter and cool in summer
with no power.

Winter Solutions:

• Wood-burning stove is ideal

• If you don’t have one, use a kerosene heater with cracked windows for airflow

• In a pinch, set up a tent indoors and fill it with sleeping bags to trap heat

Summer Solutions:

• Take a tip from Scotty’s Castle in the Mojave Desert:
  Wet cloth over open windows creates natural evaporative cooling

• Block sunlight with heavy curtains

• Stay hydrated and shaded

Step 4: Shelter-First Mindset

Your home is your best shelter—but only if it’s ready.

Ask yourself:

• Can I cook without power?

• Can I heat without gas?

• Can I cool down without AC?

• Can I defend this space if needed?

Step 5: Act Now

• Inventory your current supplies

• Make a list of what you need for 90 days

• Start gathering items that fill the gaps

• Practice short-duration drills with the power off

Bottom Line

Prepping to bug in is the most realistic plan for most people.
If you can live in your home without power for 3 months,
you’re ahead of 99% of the population.

Start small.
Think clearly.
Plan now.

And when it counts—you’ll be ready.

step by step of how to EFFECTIVELY bug in

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Day 23: How a off grid location should look…

What to Have in a Bug Out Location

You don’t need a bunker—you need a plan. A bug out location is just a safe place to go when home is no longer safe. Think smart, not extreme.

Bug Out Location = Anywhere Safe

• Could be grandma’s house or a buddy’s cabin

• Could be used for: EMP, fire, earthquake, job loss

• North, South, East, West — have options in every direction

Step 1: Make a Plan

• Talk with friends/family: “If it goes bad, can I come?”

• Offer reciprocity—they can come to you too

• Strong community = better survival

Step 2: Stash What You Can

• Could be as simple as:

  • An envelope of cash

  • An ammo can with food/water

• Or more advanced:

  • Fuel, gear, tools, ammo

If You Have a Real Location: Cover the Big 6

1. Fire → Heat & cooking

2. Water → Stored + access to replenish

3. Shelter → Solid roof + winter gear

4. Food → Stockpile + garden/hunting/livestock

5. Medical → Meds, antibiotics, trauma gear

6. Communication → Radios, SAT phone, plus a comm plan (laminated contacts, schedules, frequencies)

Bottom Line

A bug out location is more about planning than owning land.

Start now. Make the calls. Build your network.

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Day 22: What to put in a off grid VEHICLE…

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What to pack in your bug out vehicle:

Bug Out Vehicle Essentials

Most people focus on bug out bags, but your vehicle may be your most valuable shelter—second only to your clothes. Think seasonally and regionally, and rotate gear accordingly.

Core Survival Priorities:

• Don’t die = Shelter, water, food, tools, medical, communication

1. Shelter

• Your vehicle is your shelter—kit it accordingly

• Cold climates? Use a military-grade 3-layer sleeping bag system

• Add puffy snowsuits for all passengers

• Store in a single parachute bag in the trunk

• Keep your gas tank above half full at all times

2. Water

• Store in containers that withstand extreme temps (e.g., military scepter cans or insulated water bags)

• Avoid brittle bottles that crack in heat or freeze

3. Food

• Use shelf-stable options like MREs

• Avoid items that melt or spoil easily (e.g., Snickers bars)

• Rotate stock regularly

• Simple, hearty options like nuts are smart

4. Tools

• Keep a field-ready tool kit (old drill bags work great)

• Enough tools to handle serious repairs ( alternators, brakes, fuel pumps)

• Real-world value: being able to fix your own vehicle = saves time and money

5. Medical

• At a minimum: an improved first aid kit

• Include: bandages, medications, bone stabilization, puncture care, gloves, and masks

• For max preparedness: consider a field hospital-style medical bag

6. Communication

• Don’t rely on just a cell phone

• Have backup power for charging

• Consider satellite texting, ham radios, or CB radios

• If you can call for help, it’s not survival—it’s safety
  

Step By Step of how to prepare your vehicle

Day 21: The best way to store food…

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Food Storage: How To Start (and Actually Make It Work)

Food storage can feel overwhelming.
But like the old saying goes—you eat an elephant one bite at a time.

Here’s how to break it down and build it right.

1. Store What You Actually Eat

Don’t buy things you think you “should” have.
Buy food your family already eats.

• If you eat beans, buy a few extra cans

• If you love bread, stock wheat

  • And if you stock wheat, also stock:

    • A grinder

    • Salt

    • Yeast

    • Oil

Then practice—go make bread from your storage now, not during a crisis.

2. Balance Is Key

Don’t just store carbs and packaged junk.
Too many preppers load up on rice, pasta, and cereal. That’s not enough.

• Your body needs protein and fat, or you’ll get sick

• During the Great Depression, people survived by canning meat—beef, mule, even dog

• Canned meat (done right) tastes like pot roast and lasts for years

Store protein alongside your carbs—beans, canned meat, jerky, powdered eggs, etc.

3. Learn Basic Food Skills

Food storage without food skills is useless.

• Learn how to make meals from scratch

• Learn how to can, grind, bake, and cook without power

• Practice now so you’re not learning under pressure later

If you’ve never made bread from scratch, start this week.

4. Build Slowly and Smart

Don’t try to do it all at once.

• If you need 5 cans, buy 6 or 10

• Each grocery trip, buy a little extra and stash it

• Rotate your food—use and replace it in daily life

• That’s how you test your system and find weaknesses

5. Prep for Power Loss

If your plan requires electricity or tools, make sure you also store:

• A power source (solar, generator, manual backup)

• Low-tech alternatives (manual grinders, camp stoves)

Tools are only as good as your ability to power and use them.

Bottom Line

• Store what you already eat

• Include protein, fat, and not just carbs

• Get the tools and ingredients to make full meals

• Practice using your storage before you need it

• Build your stockpile one grocery trip at a time

• Rotate and use your food to keep it fresh—and tested

If you can cook with your storage today, you'll survive with it tomorrow.

Step By Step of how to EFFECTIVELY store food

Day 20: What’s the best survival knife…

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What to Look for in a Survival Knife

The survival knife debate is endless—but there are a few proven truths. These come from decades of field experience, especially from experts like Mors Kochanski and David Holladay, who lived what they taught.

Core Survival Knife Features

• Curved edge
  A continuous curve allows for draw cuts, which are more effective than press cuts.

• Blunt-ish tip
  Super pointy tips break easily. A slightly rounded tip holds up to hard use.

• Full tang
  One solid piece of steel from tip to pommel = strength and reliability for batoning and chopping.

• Indestructible handle
  No loose parts. No failure points. Needs to survive drops, splits, and prying.

• Hammer-capable pommel
  You should be able to crush, crack, or hammer with the bottom of the handle.

What Not to Look For

Avoid knives that try to do everything.

Knives that look cool but lack focus

Proven Designs

The best knife designs already exist. They’ve been used for generations:

• Puukko and Leuku (Lapland)

• Jungle parangs and bolos (Philippines, Indonesia)

• Simple machetes

These designs are effective because they’ve been refined through real-world use.
Add modern steel and full tang construction, and you’ve got a near-perfect blade.

Top Picks

• Skookum Bush Tool – If you can find one

• TOPS BOB (Brothers of Bushcraft) – Reliable and well-designed

• Anything based on traditional tools with modern materials

Bottom Line

A great survival knife doesn’t reinvent the wheel.
It refines time-tested designs with modern strength.

Stick to simplicity, durability, and field-proven shapes—and your knife won’t let you down.

Step By Step of what survival knife you need

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Day 19: What gun you need in the wild…

Guns: What to Know, What to Carry

Few topics divide people like guns.

What’s the best caliber? Best bug out gun? Best hunting rifle?

The truth: None of it matters if you can’t hit what you’re aiming at.

Shot placement matters more than caliber, brand, or accessory.

Core Principles

• Train with what you have—skill beats gear

• Ammunition is heavy—in survival, less is more

• One gun won’t do everything—you need the right tool for each job

Survival & Hunting: Go Lightweight

When food is the mission, not firefights, choose:

• Low weight

• High accuracy

• Small footprint

• High round count

Top pick: .22 LR

• 500 rounds = one small box

• Quiet, light, deadly in the right hands

• Field-tested by downed pilots and survival instructors

My go-to setup:

• Ruger Mark IV

• Red dot sight

• Suppressor

• Under-barrel light

I’ve used it to take:

• Rabbits

• Birds

• Raccoons

• Even deer (with careful shot placement)

Self-Defense: Think Speed and Range

Survival changes when threats are human.

Key needs:

• Range

• Speed

• Mobility

• Suppression ability (multiple rounds, quickly)

Top pick: AR-15 (.223/5.56)

• Balanced power

• Manageable recoil

• Lightweight ammo

• Effective for both defense and small-to-medium game

Big Game & Long Range

If your goal is taking large game at serious distances (600–800+ yards), reach for:

• .308

• .300 Win Mag

These rounds punch hard, but they’re heavier and bulkier to carry.

One Size Doesn’t Fit All

You don’t wear the same shoes to church, to work, and on a hike.
Guns are the same.

Start with:

• A solid .22 for survival and small game

• An AR platform for defense and versatility

Add:

• A larger caliber rifle when you're ready for serious range and power

Bottom Line

• Master your shot placement

• Pack light, especially in ammo

• Choose the best tool for the job—then get another for the next job

• Don’t fall for “do-it-all” gimmicks. They don’t do anything well.

  
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Day 18: What to put in a small medkit…

Medical Kits: Keep It Purpose-Driven

Don’t buy generic kits. Build your own to match the job.

1. Match the Kit to the Scenario

• Car kit: Major trauma, accidents, full-size bag

• Hiking kit: Bleeding, blisters, light meds, compact

• Home kit: Long-term care, illness, prescriptions

2. Use a Tiered System

• Small kit: On-body, stops bleeding fast

• Medium kit: Backpack, deeper care

• Large kit: Vehicle or home, full resupply

3. Think About Who You’re Treating

• Kids = Band-Aids, fever meds

• Adults = Trauma supplies, pain relief

• Elderly = Prescriptions, monitoring tools

4. Pack for Real Risks

• Build for likely injuries—driving, hiking, farming, etc.

• Don’t overpack what you’ll never use

Bottom Line:

Pack smart. Keep it scenario-specific. Know how to use it.

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Step By Step of what you need in medkit

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Day 17: Bugging out to do or not to do…

Bugging Out: To Do or Not to Do?

The debate around bugging out often stems from confusion—people use the same term to mean different things. So, first, define it.

In the military, a bug out bag (BOB) was built to sustain us until resupply—ammo, med gear, batteries, comms, food, water, and mission-critical info. That version isn't ideal for civilian life, but it's a solid foundation.

For civilian prepping, use reverse planning:

Start with the worst-case but still probable scenario in your area—natural or man-made—and build backward.

For example, in Utah, an earthquake would likely cut travel, comms, and access to credit. Prep with:

• Overland-capable vehicle

• Cash

• Firearm and ammo

• Alternative comms (SAT/hams)

• Flexible shelter/stay-or-go plan

A worst-case man-made disaster (EMP, war, collapse) requires similar prep. You’ll need to decide: stay or go?
And if you’re going, leave early and be fully ready—no last-minute packing.

A civilian BOB should include:

• Cash

• Ammo

• Med kit

• Batteries

• Laminated info (locations, contacts, passwords)

• Physical road maps

Bottom line: Plan for the worst, and you’ll be ready for everything else.

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Day 16: How to learn lessons from failures…

Lessons Learned from the Failures of Others

In the military, we run After Action Reviews (AARs) after every mission.

We ask:

• What was supposed to happen?

• What actually happened?

• What went well?

• What needs improvement?

Then we train again—better.

Apply AARs to Survival

You can use the same method to:

• Learn from history

• Adapt from recent disasters

• Prepare for future threats

Key Lesson: Movement = Survival

Most disasters are geographic—famine, war, flood, fire.

Survivors move.

• Jewish communities: survived by relocating over centuries

• Irish famine: survivors left Ireland

• Jasper, BC fires: people drove out

• West Virginia floods: families grabbed RVs and bugged out

Don’t hesitate. Move early.

Modern Takeaways

From real-world reports:

• Always carry a power source for your devices

• Pack protein, not just carbs—you’ll need long-lasting energy

Simple insights—but only if you're paying attention.

Bottom Line

Study failures. Copy success.

Use AAR thinking to prep smarter, move faster, and stay alive longer.

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Day 15: How to make a jungle tripod…

How to Build a Jungle Tripod

Most people think of tripods as camera gear or aluminum frames.

But in the jungle, a tripod is a critical primitive tool—for cooking, hanging gear, smoking meat, or even building shelters.

And the best part? You only need what's already around you.

What You Need

• Three strong, straight poles (6–8 feet long)

• Cordage—natural vine, paracord, or inner strands of 550 cord

• A knife or cutting tool

That’s it. Nothing fancy. Just simple tools and jungle resources.

Step-by-Step: Lashing a Jungle Tripod

1. Prepare the poles

• Look for hardwood saplings about wrist-thick

• Trim off branches and bark for smoother handling

2. Set up the lash

• Lay the poles side-by-side

• Use a tripod lashing (wrap the cord around all three poles several times, then frap between the poles to tighten)

3. Stand it up

• Spread the legs evenly to form a stable triangle

• Adjust the lash if it feels loose or off-balance

4. Add function

• Tie a crossbar or hang a pot from the center

• Use it to support a raised bed, cooking setup, or dry rack

Why It Matters

In the jungle, a tripod is a multi-use survival structure.

You can build it fast with local materials—and no screws, bolts, or blueprints.

It’s a simple design that’s stood the test of time—used by indigenous groups, military survivalists, and anyone who lives close to the land.

Bottom Line

The jungle tripod is first technology—primitive and perfect.

If it works in the rainforest with nothing but a knife and cord,

it’ll work for you anywhere.

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making a jungle tripod Instruction Video…

Day 14: How to make natural rope…

Making Natural Cordage

Primitive doesn’t mean weak—it means first, original, proven.

And few tools are more essential—or overlooked—than rope.

Cordage: The Underrated Survival Tool

While living with indigenous tribes in Brazil, I noticed what they valued most:

• Machetes

• Shorts

• Fire tools

• Cooking pots

• Rope

They could make natural rope fast—with hands and feet—but still cherished synthetic rope for its unmatched strength and abundance.

Cordage is survival.
Use it to:

• Haft tools

• Build shelters

• Set traps

• Make bow drills

• Create fire bundles

• Repair gear

How to Make It

1. Pick the right plant

   • Not all fibers work

   • Look for Dogbane, Yucca, milkweed, or stinging nettle

2. Process the fiber

   • Strip, dry, and clean

   • Remove stiff outer bark and retain soft inner fiber

3. Use the reverse wrap

   • Twist one strand forward, then wrap it back around the other

   • Continue until you reach the desired length

4. Practice with other materials

   • Strips from a T-shirt

   • Juniper bark

   • Grass bundles

Where It’s Useful

Natural cordage works in:

• Bow drills

• Paiute deadfalls

• Mojave scissor snares

• Fire carriers like the Apache match

• Smudge sticks made from sage

Bottom Line

Natural cordage isn’t just a bushcraft trick—it’s a critical skill.

If you don’t have rope, know how to make it.

Because when you need it, nothing else will do.

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Day 13: Using a signal mirror when lost…

How to Use a Signal Mirror When You're Lost

Signal mirrors can save your life—but they’re harder to use than they look.

The real challenge: aiming the reflection.

Method 1: Dedicated Signal Mirror

If you have a purpose-built mirror with a sighting hole or hologram, use it:

1. Hold the mirror close to your eye

2. Aim it at the sun

3. Look for the bright spot or hologram flash inside the hole

4. Move the spot onto your target (plane or rescuer)

These mirrors are designed for accuracy and long-range visibility.

Method 2: Improvised Mirror

Using a shiny object (knife, metal lid, phone screen):

1. Hold it near your right eye with your right hand

2. Extend your left hand straight out

3. Make a “V” with your fingers like a finger gun

4. Shine the light onto the back of your left hand

5. Put your target inside the “V”

6. Flick the light up and down to flash your target

This method lets you aim without fancy tools.

Practice Before You Need It

Test this with a friend and a cell phone or radio at a distance.

Train in clear weather and get used to spotting and aiming the flash.

Bottom Line

Signal mirrors are simple but not intuitive.

With a little practice, they become a powerful way to be seen—even miles away.

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Day 12: Using a anthill as a compass…

Finding North with an Ant Pile

It sounds like magic —but it’s pure environmental science.

Why It Works

Fire ants, like most animals, adapt to heat and wind in their environment.

In the Southwestern U.S., their mound entrances are built to:

• Catch warmth in the cold morning

• Avoid harsh sun in the hot afternoon

• Shelter from prevailing west-to-east winds

Result:

Most entrances face South to Southeast

How to Use It

1. Find several undisturbed ant piles

   • Avoid ones damaged by cars, animals, or shaded by cliffs/trees

2. Observe the direction of the entrance holes

3. Average the direction—most will point South/Southeast

4. Use that to find North (opposite direction)

Why This Matters

If you got lost heading north, and all the ant piles face southeast,

you now know how to backtrack south—even without a compass.

Bottom Line

Nature leaves clues

Ants know where the sun rises.

You just have to notice.

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Day 11: Using the sun as a compass…

Finding North with Just the Sun

You can lose gear. You can break tools.

But knowledge stays with you—and it weighs nothing.

The Power of Directional Awareness

Knowing how to find North using just the sun is a simple, universal survival skill.

It won’t give you GPS-level accuracy—but it’ll get you moving in the right direction.

Basic Method (Northern Hemisphere)

1. Find a stick about 2 feet long

2. Plant it upright in the ground

3. Mark the tip of its shadow with a rock or stick (this is West)

4. Wait 15–30 minutes

5. Mark the new tip of the shadow (this is East)

6. Draw a line between the two marks

7. Stand with the first mark (West) on your left and the second mark (East) on your right

8. You are now facing North

This is called the shadow-stick method.

Notes & Variations

• Works best mid-day with clear sunlight

• Use longer intervals in winter or at higher latitudes

• Doesn’t work well in dense jungle or deep canyons

• Adjust expectations in polar regions (sun behaves differently)

Why It Matters

In many survival situations, you don’t need precision—you need a general direction.

Whether it's getting back to camp, finding a road, or handrailing a stream,

direction buys you distance—and distance gets you found.

Bottom Line

The sun is your compass Just Know How To Read It.

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Day 10: How animal poop can save lives…

Cow and Deer Poop Can Save Your Life

Sounds crazy—but it’s true.

Herbivore poop is one of nature’s most underrated survival tools.

Why It Works

• Cows, deer, elk = grass-processing machines

• Their poop is dried, compressed plant material

• After a season in the sun, it’s dry, flammable, and fuel-rich

How to Use It

• Fire fuel in treeless areas

• Smudge fuel to drive off bugs

• Ember carrier to move fire across long distances

  • Stick a coal inside a dried cow patty

  • Let it smolder for hours or even days

  • Revive it later with a fire nest

Real-World Application

In open prairies or high deserts where wood is scarce, dried poop is your firewood.

That’s what native peoples did.

That’s what you should learn to do.

Bottom Line

Don’t overlook the obvious.

In survival, the "gross" can save your life.

Learn your environment—see it with new eyes.

What once looked like waste might just be your next fire.

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Day 9: Using sage brush…

Sagebrush: More Than Just a Bush

If you’ve spent any time in the West, you’ve seen sagebrush everywhere.

But do you know how to use it?

What Sagebrush Is Good For

1. Natural Cleanser

• After 3 days without washing, bacteria and yeast build up fast

• Native Americans used sagebrush smoke to kill microbes

• It's antimicrobial and antibacterial—not just ritual, real hygiene

2. Field Toilet Paper

• Soft, minty, and effective

• Can save you when nature calls and there’s no paper in sight

• Useful and comforting in a bad situation

Why It Matters

Sagebrush is:

• Abundant

• Multi-use

• Medicinal

• Often overlooked

Once you know how to use it, it stops being “just a bush” and becomes a survival tool.

Bottom Line

Sagebrush keeps you clean, fresh, and ready—from hygiene to emergency toilet paper.

Learn what grows around you.

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Day 8: Creating THE FIRE Piston…

The Fire Piston

The fire piston is an ancient fire-starting tool that works on compression ignition—just like a diesel engine.

How It Works

• You compress air rapidly inside a small sealed cylinder

• The sudden pressure creates heat—enough to ignite char cloth

• That gives you an ember

• Transfer the ember to a tinder nest, add oxygen, and you’ve got fire

The Technique: Hit. Pause. Pull.

• Hit the piston down hard and fast

• Pause for a second to let the spark take hold

• Pull the piston out and check for the ember

• Then move it to your tinder bundle and blow it to flame

Timing is everything.

Too fast and the ember won’t catch—too slow and it suffocates.

Bottom Line

The fire piston is a powerful primitive tool—but it takes practice.

Master the technique, and you can make fire from nothing but air, pressure, and knowledge.

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Day 7: Creating THE FIRE BUNDLE…

The Fire Nest (Fire Bundle)

The fire nest is the critical link between spark and flame, and between ember and fire.

Why It Matters

A fire nest:

• Catches the first ember from a bow drill, hand drill, or flint and steel

• Helps you restart a fire when it goes out overnight

• Converts fragile sparks into full, usable flame

Without a proper nest, your ember dies, and so does your fire.

What Makes a Good Fire Nest

• Dry, fibrous material (cedar bark, sagebrush bark, jute twine, dry grass)

• Formed into a loose, airy bundle

• Ember placed in the center

• Blown into gently until it ignites

You want it fluffy enough for oxygen flow but dense enough to catch and hold heat.

Pro Tip

At night, place a smoldering ember in your fire nest, cover it with sticks, and it can reignite the fire in about 15 minutes.

Bottom Line

A good fire nest is essential for primitive fire starting and critical for survival.

Master the nest—master the flame.

If you can’t make fire you at least need light

Grab the Blak Lantern above (click image)

Step By Step Fire Bundle Creating Card…

Creating A Fire Bundle Instruction Video…

Day 6: USING fLINT AND STEEL

Flint and Steel (Not a Ferro Rod)

Flint and steel is old-school firemaking—used long before matches or lighters.

The trick?

It’s not just about the spark—it’s what you spark onto.

The Real Key: Char Cloth

Char cloth = plant-based fabric, cooked without oxygen

It’s what catches the spark and turns it into fire.

How to Make It

1. Use 100% cotton (old Levi’s or T-shirt)

2. Roll it up and place in a metal tin (like an Altoids can)

3. Toss the sealed can into a fire

4. Wait for the flame or smoke jet to stop

5. Remove it carefully

6. Let it cool before opening (oxygen too soon = burned cloth)

How to Use It

• Place a piece of char cloth on the edge of your flint

• Strike steel down across the flint with your other hand

• Spark catches on the cloth

• Transfer glowing ember to tinder bundle and blow into flame

Bottom Line

Forget magic tools—flint and steel still works.

If it was good enough for Grandma,

It’s good enough for you.

Here is a flashlight I made so every survivalist could have it…

i’m giving it to you for FREE so I could put it in more peoples hands grab now (click above)

Step By Step Flint And SteEL Fire Creation Card…

Flint & Steel Fire Creation Instruction Video…