Day 20: What’s the best survival knife…

My personal favorite survival knife…

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What to Look for in a Survival Knife

The survival knife debate is endless—but there are a few proven truths. These come from decades of field experience, especially from experts like Mors Kochanski and David Holladay, who lived what they taught.

Core Survival Knife Features

• Curved edge
  A continuous curve allows for draw cuts, which are more effective than press cuts.

• Blunt-ish tip
  Super pointy tips break easily. A slightly rounded tip holds up to hard use.

• Full tang
  One solid piece of steel from tip to pommel = strength and reliability for batoning and chopping.

• Indestructible handle
  No loose parts. No failure points. Needs to survive drops, splits, and prying.

• Hammer-capable pommel
  You should be able to crush, crack, or hammer with the bottom of the handle.

What Not to Look For

Avoid knives that try to do everything.

Knives that look cool but lack focus

Proven Designs

The best knife designs already exist. They’ve been used for generations:

• Puukko and Leuku (Lapland)

• Jungle parangs and bolos (Philippines, Indonesia)

• Simple machetes

These designs are effective because they’ve been refined through real-world use.
Add modern steel and full tang construction, and you’ve got a near-perfect blade.

Top Picks

• Skookum Bush Tool – If you can find one

• TOPS BOB (Brothers of Bushcraft) – Reliable and well-designed

• Anything based on traditional tools with modern materials

Bottom Line

A great survival knife doesn’t reinvent the wheel.
It refines time-tested designs with modern strength.

Stick to simplicity, durability, and field-proven shapes—and your knife won’t let you down.

Step By Step of what survival knife you need

knife characteristics you need video intro…

Day 19: What gun you need in the wild…

Guns: What to Know, What to Carry

Few topics divide people like guns.

What’s the best caliber? Best bug out gun? Best hunting rifle?

The truth: None of it matters if you can’t hit what you’re aiming at.

Shot placement matters more than caliber, brand, or accessory.

Core Principles

• Train with what you have—skill beats gear

• Ammunition is heavy—in survival, less is more

• One gun won’t do everything—you need the right tool for each job

Survival & Hunting: Go Lightweight

When food is the mission, not firefights, choose:

• Low weight

• High accuracy

• Small footprint

• High round count

Top pick: .22 LR

• 500 rounds = one small box

• Quiet, light, deadly in the right hands

• Field-tested by downed pilots and survival instructors

My go-to setup:

• Ruger Mark IV

• Red dot sight

• Suppressor

• Under-barrel light

I’ve used it to take:

• Rabbits

• Birds

• Raccoons

• Even deer (with careful shot placement)

Self-Defense: Think Speed and Range

Survival changes when threats are human.

Key needs:

• Range

• Speed

• Mobility

• Suppression ability (multiple rounds, quickly)

Top pick: AR-15 (.223/5.56)

• Balanced power

• Manageable recoil

• Lightweight ammo

• Effective for both defense and small-to-medium game

Big Game & Long Range

If your goal is taking large game at serious distances (600–800+ yards), reach for:

• .308

• .300 Win Mag

These rounds punch hard, but they’re heavier and bulkier to carry.

One Size Doesn’t Fit All

You don’t wear the same shoes to church, to work, and on a hike.
Guns are the same.

Start with:

• A solid .22 for survival and small game

• An AR platform for defense and versatility

Add:

• A larger caliber rifle when you're ready for serious range and power

Bottom Line

• Master your shot placement

• Pack light, especially in ammo

• Choose the best tool for the job—then get another for the next job

• Don’t fall for “do-it-all” gimmicks. They don’t do anything well.

  
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Step By Step of why you need a gun in

my personal gun and other alternatives

Day 18: What to put in a small medkit…

Medical Kits: Keep It Purpose-Driven

Don’t buy generic kits. Build your own to match the job.

1. Match the Kit to the Scenario

• Car kit: Major trauma, accidents, full-size bag

• Hiking kit: Bleeding, blisters, light meds, compact

• Home kit: Long-term care, illness, prescriptions

2. Use a Tiered System

• Small kit: On-body, stops bleeding fast

• Medium kit: Backpack, deeper care

• Large kit: Vehicle or home, full resupply

3. Think About Who You’re Treating

• Kids = Band-Aids, fever meds

• Adults = Trauma supplies, pain relief

• Elderly = Prescriptions, monitoring tools

4. Pack for Real Risks

• Build for likely injuries—driving, hiking, farming, etc.

• Don’t overpack what you’ll never use

Bottom Line:

Pack smart. Keep it scenario-specific. Know how to use it.

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Step By Step of what you need in medkit

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Day 17: Bugging out to do or not to do…

Bugging Out: To Do or Not to Do?

The debate around bugging out often stems from confusion—people use the same term to mean different things. So, first, define it.

In the military, a bug out bag (BOB) was built to sustain us until resupply—ammo, med gear, batteries, comms, food, water, and mission-critical info. That version isn't ideal for civilian life, but it's a solid foundation.

For civilian prepping, use reverse planning:

Start with the worst-case but still probable scenario in your area—natural or man-made—and build backward.

For example, in Utah, an earthquake would likely cut travel, comms, and access to credit. Prep with:

• Overland-capable vehicle

• Cash

• Firearm and ammo

• Alternative comms (SAT/hams)

• Flexible shelter/stay-or-go plan

A worst-case man-made disaster (EMP, war, collapse) requires similar prep. You’ll need to decide: stay or go?
And if you’re going, leave early and be fully ready—no last-minute packing.

A civilian BOB should include:

• Cash

• Ammo

• Med kit

• Batteries

• Laminated info (locations, contacts, passwords)

• Physical road maps

Bottom line: Plan for the worst, and you’ll be ready for everything else.

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Day 16: How to learn lessons from failures…

Lessons Learned from the Failures of Others

In the military, we run After Action Reviews (AARs) after every mission.

We ask:

• What was supposed to happen?

• What actually happened?

• What went well?

• What needs improvement?

Then we train again—better.

Apply AARs to Survival

You can use the same method to:

• Learn from history

• Adapt from recent disasters

• Prepare for future threats

Key Lesson: Movement = Survival

Most disasters are geographic—famine, war, flood, fire.

Survivors move.

• Jewish communities: survived by relocating over centuries

• Irish famine: survivors left Ireland

• Jasper, BC fires: people drove out

• West Virginia floods: families grabbed RVs and bugged out

Don’t hesitate. Move early.

Modern Takeaways

From real-world reports:

• Always carry a power source for your devices

• Pack protein, not just carbs—you’ll need long-lasting energy

Simple insights—but only if you're paying attention.

Bottom Line

Study failures. Copy success.

Use AAR thinking to prep smarter, move faster, and stay alive longer.

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Day 15: How to make a jungle tripod…

How to Build a Jungle Tripod

Most people think of tripods as camera gear or aluminum frames.

But in the jungle, a tripod is a critical primitive tool—for cooking, hanging gear, smoking meat, or even building shelters.

And the best part? You only need what's already around you.

What You Need

• Three strong, straight poles (6–8 feet long)

• Cordage—natural vine, paracord, or inner strands of 550 cord

• A knife or cutting tool

That’s it. Nothing fancy. Just simple tools and jungle resources.

Step-by-Step: Lashing a Jungle Tripod

1. Prepare the poles

• Look for hardwood saplings about wrist-thick

• Trim off branches and bark for smoother handling

2. Set up the lash

• Lay the poles side-by-side

• Use a tripod lashing (wrap the cord around all three poles several times, then frap between the poles to tighten)

3. Stand it up

• Spread the legs evenly to form a stable triangle

• Adjust the lash if it feels loose or off-balance

4. Add function

• Tie a crossbar or hang a pot from the center

• Use it to support a raised bed, cooking setup, or dry rack

Why It Matters

In the jungle, a tripod is a multi-use survival structure.

You can build it fast with local materials—and no screws, bolts, or blueprints.

It’s a simple design that’s stood the test of time—used by indigenous groups, military survivalists, and anyone who lives close to the land.

Bottom Line

The jungle tripod is first technology—primitive and perfect.

If it works in the rainforest with nothing but a knife and cord,

it’ll work for you anywhere.

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making a jungle tripod Instruction Video…

Day 14: How to make natural rope…

Making Natural Cordage

Primitive doesn’t mean weak—it means first, original, proven.

And few tools are more essential—or overlooked—than rope.

Cordage: The Underrated Survival Tool

While living with indigenous tribes in Brazil, I noticed what they valued most:

• Machetes

• Shorts

• Fire tools

• Cooking pots

• Rope

They could make natural rope fast—with hands and feet—but still cherished synthetic rope for its unmatched strength and abundance.

Cordage is survival.
Use it to:

• Haft tools

• Build shelters

• Set traps

• Make bow drills

• Create fire bundles

• Repair gear

How to Make It

1. Pick the right plant

   • Not all fibers work

   • Look for Dogbane, Yucca, milkweed, or stinging nettle

2. Process the fiber

   • Strip, dry, and clean

   • Remove stiff outer bark and retain soft inner fiber

3. Use the reverse wrap

   • Twist one strand forward, then wrap it back around the other

   • Continue until you reach the desired length

4. Practice with other materials

   • Strips from a T-shirt

   • Juniper bark

   • Grass bundles

Where It’s Useful

Natural cordage works in:

• Bow drills

• Paiute deadfalls

• Mojave scissor snares

• Fire carriers like the Apache match

• Smudge sticks made from sage

Bottom Line

Natural cordage isn’t just a bushcraft trick—it’s a critical skill.

If you don’t have rope, know how to make it.

Because when you need it, nothing else will do.

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Day 13: Using a signal mirror when lost…

How to Use a Signal Mirror When You're Lost

Signal mirrors can save your life—but they’re harder to use than they look.

The real challenge: aiming the reflection.

Method 1: Dedicated Signal Mirror

If you have a purpose-built mirror with a sighting hole or hologram, use it:

1. Hold the mirror close to your eye

2. Aim it at the sun

3. Look for the bright spot or hologram flash inside the hole

4. Move the spot onto your target (plane or rescuer)

These mirrors are designed for accuracy and long-range visibility.

Method 2: Improvised Mirror

Using a shiny object (knife, metal lid, phone screen):

1. Hold it near your right eye with your right hand

2. Extend your left hand straight out

3. Make a “V” with your fingers like a finger gun

4. Shine the light onto the back of your left hand

5. Put your target inside the “V”

6. Flick the light up and down to flash your target

This method lets you aim without fancy tools.

Practice Before You Need It

Test this with a friend and a cell phone or radio at a distance.

Train in clear weather and get used to spotting and aiming the flash.

Bottom Line

Signal mirrors are simple but not intuitive.

With a little practice, they become a powerful way to be seen—even miles away.

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Day 12: Using a anthill as a compass…

Finding North with an Ant Pile

It sounds like magic —but it’s pure environmental science.

Why It Works

Fire ants, like most animals, adapt to heat and wind in their environment.

In the Southwestern U.S., their mound entrances are built to:

• Catch warmth in the cold morning

• Avoid harsh sun in the hot afternoon

• Shelter from prevailing west-to-east winds

Result:

Most entrances face South to Southeast

How to Use It

1. Find several undisturbed ant piles

   • Avoid ones damaged by cars, animals, or shaded by cliffs/trees

2. Observe the direction of the entrance holes

3. Average the direction—most will point South/Southeast

4. Use that to find North (opposite direction)

Why This Matters

If you got lost heading north, and all the ant piles face southeast,

you now know how to backtrack south—even without a compass.

Bottom Line

Nature leaves clues

Ants know where the sun rises.

You just have to notice.

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Day 11: Using the sun as a compass…

Finding North with Just the Sun

You can lose gear. You can break tools.

But knowledge stays with you—and it weighs nothing.

The Power of Directional Awareness

Knowing how to find North using just the sun is a simple, universal survival skill.

It won’t give you GPS-level accuracy—but it’ll get you moving in the right direction.

Basic Method (Northern Hemisphere)

1. Find a stick about 2 feet long

2. Plant it upright in the ground

3. Mark the tip of its shadow with a rock or stick (this is West)

4. Wait 15–30 minutes

5. Mark the new tip of the shadow (this is East)

6. Draw a line between the two marks

7. Stand with the first mark (West) on your left and the second mark (East) on your right

8. You are now facing North

This is called the shadow-stick method.

Notes & Variations

• Works best mid-day with clear sunlight

• Use longer intervals in winter or at higher latitudes

• Doesn’t work well in dense jungle or deep canyons

• Adjust expectations in polar regions (sun behaves differently)

Why It Matters

In many survival situations, you don’t need precision—you need a general direction.

Whether it's getting back to camp, finding a road, or handrailing a stream,

direction buys you distance—and distance gets you found.

Bottom Line

The sun is your compass Just Know How To Read It.

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Day 10: How animal poop can save lives…

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Cow and Deer Poop Can Save Your Life

Sounds crazy—but it’s true.

Herbivore poop is one of nature’s most underrated survival tools.

Why It Works

• Cows, deer, elk = grass-processing machines

• Their poop is dried, compressed plant material

• After a season in the sun, it’s dry, flammable, and fuel-rich

How to Use It

• Fire fuel in treeless areas

• Smudge fuel to drive off bugs

• Ember carrier to move fire across long distances

  • Stick a coal inside a dried cow patty

  • Let it smolder for hours or even days

  • Revive it later with a fire nest

Real-World Application

In open prairies or high deserts where wood is scarce, dried poop is your firewood.

That’s what native peoples did.

That’s what you should learn to do.

Bottom Line

Don’t overlook the obvious.

In survival, the "gross" can save your life.

Learn your environment—see it with new eyes.

What once looked like waste might just be your next fire.

Step By Step animal dung card…

cow pie Instruction Video…

Day 9: Using sage brush…

Sagebrush: More Than Just a Bush

If you’ve spent any time in the West, you’ve seen sagebrush everywhere.

But do you know how to use it?

What Sagebrush Is Good For

1. Natural Cleanser

• After 3 days without washing, bacteria and yeast build up fast

• Native Americans used sagebrush smoke to kill microbes

• It's antimicrobial and antibacterial—not just ritual, real hygiene

2. Field Toilet Paper

• Soft, minty, and effective

• Can save you when nature calls and there’s no paper in sight

• Useful and comforting in a bad situation

Why It Matters

Sagebrush is:

• Abundant

• Multi-use

• Medicinal

• Often overlooked

Once you know how to use it, it stops being “just a bush” and becomes a survival tool.

Bottom Line

Sagebrush keeps you clean, fresh, and ready—from hygiene to emergency toilet paper.

Learn what grows around you.

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Day 8: Creating THE FIRE Piston…

The Fire Piston

The fire piston is an ancient fire-starting tool that works on compression ignition—just like a diesel engine.

How It Works

• You compress air rapidly inside a small sealed cylinder

• The sudden pressure creates heat—enough to ignite char cloth

• That gives you an ember

• Transfer the ember to a tinder nest, add oxygen, and you’ve got fire

The Technique: Hit. Pause. Pull.

• Hit the piston down hard and fast

• Pause for a second to let the spark take hold

• Pull the piston out and check for the ember

• Then move it to your tinder bundle and blow it to flame

Timing is everything.

Too fast and the ember won’t catch—too slow and it suffocates.

Bottom Line

The fire piston is a powerful primitive tool—but it takes practice.

Master the technique, and you can make fire from nothing but air, pressure, and knowledge.

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Day 7: Creating THE FIRE BUNDLE…

The Fire Nest (Fire Bundle)

The fire nest is the critical link between spark and flame, and between ember and fire.

Why It Matters

A fire nest:

• Catches the first ember from a bow drill, hand drill, or flint and steel

• Helps you restart a fire when it goes out overnight

• Converts fragile sparks into full, usable flame

Without a proper nest, your ember dies, and so does your fire.

What Makes a Good Fire Nest

• Dry, fibrous material (cedar bark, sagebrush bark, jute twine, dry grass)

• Formed into a loose, airy bundle

• Ember placed in the center

• Blown into gently until it ignites

You want it fluffy enough for oxygen flow but dense enough to catch and hold heat.

Pro Tip

At night, place a smoldering ember in your fire nest, cover it with sticks, and it can reignite the fire in about 15 minutes.

Bottom Line

A good fire nest is essential for primitive fire starting and critical for survival.

Master the nest—master the flame.

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Creating A Fire Bundle Instruction Video…

Day 6: USING fLINT AND STEEL

Flint and Steel (Not a Ferro Rod)

Flint and steel is old-school firemaking—used long before matches or lighters.

The trick?

It’s not just about the spark—it’s what you spark onto.

The Real Key: Char Cloth

Char cloth = plant-based fabric, cooked without oxygen

It’s what catches the spark and turns it into fire.

How to Make It

1. Use 100% cotton (old Levi’s or T-shirt)

2. Roll it up and place in a metal tin (like an Altoids can)

3. Toss the sealed can into a fire

4. Wait for the flame or smoke jet to stop

5. Remove it carefully

6. Let it cool before opening (oxygen too soon = burned cloth)

How to Use It

• Place a piece of char cloth on the edge of your flint

• Strike steel down across the flint with your other hand

• Spark catches on the cloth

• Transfer glowing ember to tinder bundle and blow into flame

Bottom Line

Forget magic tools—flint and steel still works.

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It’s good enough for you.

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Day 5: Using The ferro rod

The Ferro Rod: Modern Fire, Primitive Reliability

Not to be confused with flint and steel, the Ferro Rod is a firestarter made of ferrocerium and iron. It throws hot, blazing sparks—much hotter and more abundant than traditional steel sparks.

What Makes It Different

• Ferrocerium ignites at 3,000–5,000°F

• Creates a shower of sparks with minimal effort

• More forgiving than flint and steel—ideal for beginners

Bonus: Magnesium Combo Kits

Many rods come with a magnesium block attached.

Here’s how to use it:

1. Scrape a small pile of magnesium into your tinder

2. Strike the Ferro Rod side to ignite the magnesium

3. Magnesium burns hot and fast—perfect for damp conditions

Pro Tip: Master Your Technique

Most people try to move the knife and aim sparks.

Don’t.

Instead:

• Hold your blade steady, just above your tinder

• Pull the Ferro Rod backward against the spine of the blade

• This keeps your sparks focused and predictable

Now you can reliably ignite:

• Shaved bark

• Magnesium pile

• Fluffed cambium

• Dry grass or any natural tinder

Bottom Line

The Ferro Rod is one of the best fire tools on Earth.

Lightweight, low-fail, high-temp, and kid-friendly.

Learn the technique, trust the sparks.

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Day 4: Creating A Bow Drill Fire

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Bow Drills

Bow drills seem tough at first—but with practice, they’re one of the most reliable friction fire methods.

Why Egyptian Style?

• Works great with 550 cord, shoelaces, or shirt strings

• Super adjustable and forgiving with modern materials

What You Need (5 Parts):

1. Bow – Green stick (thumb-thick, springy like willow)

2. String – Tied with tension-adjusting wraps

3. Spindle – Bone-dry and straight; think “banana cut straight”

4. Hearth board – Flat, dry wood about spindle thickness

5. Socket – Low-friction top (knife divot, stone, or wood)

Pro Tips:

• Fire harden your bow after first use

• Add green leaves or sap to the socket to reduce friction

• Aim for high friction on the hearth board, low friction on the socket

• Your spindle must roll smooth—like a marble on tile

• Practice creates mastery—this is a skill no one can take from you

Bottom Line

Mastering bow drills gives you fire from nothing.

And like all true survival knowledge—it weighs nothing.

Step By Step Bow Drill Instruction Card…

Bow Drill Fire Creation Instruction Video…

Day 3: Creating A Hand Drill Fire

Be Kind Always.

Hand Drill

The hand drill is the most primitive friction fire method—but it’s also the easiest to build.

Why Hand Drill?

• Works with just two sticks

• No cord, knife, or bow required

• Perfect for no-gear survival scenarios

What You Need (2 Parts)

• Spindle – Straight, dry stalk

• Hearth Board – Dry, soft wood (cottonwood, willow, cedar)

Pro Tips

• Use plant dust, shirt fabric, or ash to reduce hand friction

• Spin slow to warm it up, fast to ignite

• Cut a notch in your hearth board to catch the ember

• Keep elbows on knees for stability and control

Bottom Line

Mastering the hand drill gives you fire with zero gear.

It’s tough—but it’s simple.

And like all survival knowledge—it weighs nothing.

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DAY 2: FIRE SCIENCE LAws…

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So let's talk a little bit about it.

Fire Science

Fire isn’t magic—it’s a formula.

And if you don’t understand it, you’ll waste lighters, energy, and time.

The Fire Triangle

Every fire needs:

• Heat – Sparks, friction, or flame

• Fuel – Dry wood, tinder, gas

• Oxygen – Airflow around the fire

Take away any one—and the fire dies.

What’s Actually Burning?

• Fire burns gas, not wood

• Heat turns wood into gas

• The gas mixes with oxygen and creates the flame

• That’s why flames hover just above the wood—not touching it

Why Fires Fail

• Wet wood steals heat and kills ignition

• No airflow? No fire—oxygen gets cut off

• Too much wood on top? You suffocate the flame

Pro Tips

• Build fires off the ground—oxygen flows better

• Use a log cabin or teepee structure for air space

• Only use dead, dry, finely processed wood

Bottom Line

Fire is science, not guesswork.

Understand the triangle, control the elements, and your fires will always light.

Day 1: Understanding Survival PRIORITIES

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Survival Priorities

People ask, “What do I do if…?”

The answer: follow the Rule of Threes.

What Is the Rule of Threes?

A field-tested guideline that helps you focus on what kills you fastest—so you can survive anything.

Tyler’s Rule of Threes

• 3 Seconds Without Security

  • Gunfights average 3 seconds

  • Have a plan: firearm, blade, exit path, or location

  • Stay strapped or get clapped

• 3 Minutes Without Air

  • Drowning, smoke inhalation, airway blockage

  • Always carry survival gear on your person—not packed away

• 3 Hours Without Shelter (in harsh weather)

  • Hypothermia or heat stroke will kill fast

  • Your first shelter is your clothing—dress for survival

  • Then: sleeping bag > bivy > tent > natural shelter

• 3 Days Without Water

  • Depends on the environment

  • Water before food—always

• 3 Weeks Without Food

  • Hunger won’t kill you fast

  • You can survive on fat stores—prioritize shelter and water first

  • Don’t ration—binge and burn

• 3 Months Without Companionship

  • Isolation breaks the mind

  • Connection is survival too

Bottom Line

Gear matters.

Skills matter more.

But knowing what to do first is what keeps you alive.

Master your priorities—and go home and eat tacos.

Survival Priority Instruction Video…